Hello. I was just thinking about the prospect of putting a router bit in the drill press, setting it for a fast RPM, and using it like an overarm router. The only theoretical reason i can think of why this wouldn't work is that a drill is not designed for side-to-side stress. Should I not attempt this?

I wouldn't for several reasons.

For one, as you said, drill presses aren't designed for such side loads. They also won't handle speeds required for router use.

What is it you're trying to do? Maybe we can come up with a better way to do it, and safer too.

Paul
the little guy

you could just set up pin above the bit in your router table.

Or use a pattern/flush cutting router bit.

Tiny,

I made a dresser that had decorative posts on the corners. they had 45 degree recesses, into which 3 decorative flutes were routed. i took the pattern from a book, in which they used an overarm router. I tried a couple ways to do it differently, and ruined some good cherry stock. Not wanting to waste more time and valuable materials, I skipped the fluting and completed building the dresser.

The routing used a sled with a V-groove to hold it square to the overarm router. there was no way to do this on a router table that I could figure. But it got me to thinking about how to get around that in the future. I wouldn't use an overarm router enough to justify the purchase.

Pete

www.pcforestry.com

Minimum safe rpm speed for a router bit is between 10,000 and 12,000, up to as much as 33,000. Over arm's have an entirely different motor in them.

Could you provide a picture of what yoiu want to do? It might make it clearer.

Paul
the little guy

You can still use a sled with a table router, all depending on just how much of that 45 degree corner you need to work. If its a short distance, make a high sled so the piece overhangs it. Take shallow cuts to minimize vibration.

If its a long piece make the sled so it is the full distance of the table, only with the bit area open. Sled stays attached to table/fence or both and the piece moves. Hope that made sense.

A sled is used to do fluting or reeding on a drill press. A 90 degree boring bar with a Tool Bit ground to the desired rounded shape for fluting is used. Reeding is a different grind. The tool bits are cut off so only the cutting edge will protrude. The drill press is turned up to a high speed. The project is fastened securely in the sled. Make sure the tool bit is lined up with the center line of the project. It is a good idea to run a scrap piece first to check the depth of cut and alignment. I have had good results with this over the years, it works!

I've always used just a route table to do fluting. From full length, to stopped (full depth) or stopped with tappered ends.

Now if I understand correctly, you have either a 1/4 or 1/2 posts with 3 flutes that will run onto the 45' angle. Are the flutes merging into 1 or will they remain seperate?

Whenever I have a project, I'll mill up a little extra wood, any kind of wood, to use as trial pcs (aka shop gnome) for setting the saw, router, drilling, writing, throwing, etc. By the time I get done with the shop gnomes they have more milage and abuse than a Grayhound bus. It keeps you from wasting the good stock. Just another use for scraps.

You can try to jig something up and hopefully be safe to use. But for a couple of small pcs. and a one time use, grab the carving tools, sandpaper and a dowel, make the flutes and your done in 15-20 mins.

It will take you longer to make the jig for this than doing it by hand:
Pull out the trim router, chuck up the bit, and make a jig. Jig will need to be on a 45' to match the end of the post. The jig and post will need to be clamped to the bench. Setting stops on each side of the base of the router, indexing the bit to each flute. Turn the trim router on low and starting at the top mill down the 45' slope. Do all posts/ends before moving the jig.