I have built a few pieces of furniture as a real novice. I own the tools but lack know how in spite of reading lots of books. I really enjoy using hand tools and can truly look at every project that I have built as a progression of patients and skill. Our VCR is set to record every episode of Rough Cut and really enjoy the web-site “How To” section. For me Tommy’s style of teaching is perfect, the explanations are very understandable and his enthusiasm is infectious.

My next project is a chest of drawers for a guest bed room to match some existing furniture. I learned lots from the tool chest about fitting drawers, socket dovetails bead molding. Not sure how to fabricate cock bead for the drawers or build the ogee bracket feet, which will probably be the most challenging part for me

Suggestions appreciated

Cockbead will probably be the easiest moulding you will ever make in your shop. it's made using a scratchstock, made from scrap material, if you have the stuff laying around it may take you 5 minutes to make it.

The ogee foot is another story. There 2 ways to make the foot. Saw the profile before mitering the foot or after. I'll try to explain,
Method1. To cut the curve on the outside, profile, can be cut on the table saw then smoothed with scrapers, files, etc. This is done before the miters are cut and even before the curved interior is cut. Once the profile is smoothed out cut the miters, and interior.

Method 2. You'll need a bandsaw with a fairly good open height on the table. I can't remember the correct term. . Usually a bandsaw with a resaw attachment is a good choice. You need to make a stand to hold the leg up to cut the profile. Search the forum for the Double Dresser i built I posted some pictures on cutting the feet (viewtopic.php?f=39&t=1784) . You need to miter the feet, Cut the grooves for splines, cut the interior cuts, glue and clamp the legs. mark the profile on the ends of the stock, clamp to the platform, saw to the line. Reclamp and carefully follow the profile line. There is a line showing where the miter is located on the profile. Scrape, file, and sand.

There is a scratch bead and a cock bead, although many don't make the distinction and simple call either a cock bead, there is a difference in the look as well as the effort it takes. FWW has a good video demonstration by Steve Latta in the free section of their site. Two Ways to Make Cock Beading

Thanks to all that replied on the cock bead & bracket foot question. This morning was my first attempt at the molding, perhaps a bit unconventional. I milled a sample drawer front from ¾ inch scrap mahogany approx 4 inches by 14. I made the bead molding from 1 inch stock, jointed and cut 3/16 strips. I made a zero clearance opening for my router table by clamping a 1/8 piece hard board on the table and running a 1/8 radius round over bit through it. Using feather boards I profiled the thin strips, mitered the corners, cut them to length.

I placed the drawer front, face down on some wax paper to protect my work bench, used a thin piece of plastic (smaller than the face of the drawer) between the drawer front and bench for the bead reveal. The beading strips were glued, held in place first with painters tape, then clamps. When the glue dried, I sanded the drawer backs flush and cut the half blinds through the applied molding a drawer side. Before I attempt this method on "the good stock" any foreseeable drawbacks to the method/ suggestions? Thanks

This seemed to work well, although the beads were a little clunky. I have found a 3/32 rounder on-line along with some hand work I am hoping to refine the look. The finishing touch was to use a card scraper where the molding meets the front for a seamless transition. Suggestions always appreciated. Also found a book in my library w/a CD explaining Ogee bracket feet. That comes later.

If I were doing it, I'd do the half blind dovetails first, then route them down to accept the bead moldings. Looks neater.

Paul
the little guy

You could try scratching a bead (scratchstock) at the size and proportions you want into a board and then slice each bead off using the table saw. That way you wouldn't be limited by the size of available router bits.