I need to purchase a dovetail saw and was wondering if the group could help me pick one? Bear in mind I have never used a dovetail saw before. The following is what I found at Highland Woodworking web site. What are the differences and does it even matter?
Bahco 10” (13-15 TPI) Reusable offset profcut saw
8” and 10" strait dovetail saw
6” Gentleman’s saw

Woody

Woody,

I would recommend that you go to the nearest Woodcraft store and try out a couple of their saws. I have the Grammercy and love it. You can purchace it at Tools for Woodworkers.com

Rat.

My vote is for the Lee-Valley DT saw. My second choice for a saw that works out of the box would be the gent's saw from Lie-Nielsen. I tried it and their progressive pitch saw at a LN Handtool Event and I really didn't care for the progressive pitch. Might just be something you have to get used to.

If you have a budget less than $50 and don't already have a preference for push versus pull, consider the Shark Saw. Its a bargain at $25 plus you can replace the blade.

If you want new but don't mind some work, the Crown Gent's saw is good but may require some tuning up. Often it can be had for $20.

Bruce's recommendation to find a way to test drive a saw is very important. I've come to believe that the small saws are a very personal choice as far as their feel in your hand. If it doesn't feel right, it won't cut "right". If they will let you test drive at the store, try cutting dead straight lines marked about an inch long on the end of a 3/4" board. Take along a 1/2" or 3/8" board too if you can. You may find you like one saw for thin stock and another for thick stock.

I guess you also asked about the "difference" too...


Don't bother with the Bahco 10" reversible handle saw. Those are really meant for cutting off the trim under a door so flooring can be slipped in. That's why you can flip the offset handle to one side or the other.

The 8" straight handle and 6" Gent's saw are essentially the same, except for 2"... Both look like the Crown brand. An ok saw for the money but I found they have too much set and the teeth weren't as sharp as they could be. The resulting kerf was much wider than the saw plate and so the saw could wobble about. That just sets you up for a saw cut that drifts off line.

After stoning the sides a little bit and some practice at sharpening it cut better. Also, I think the teeth were originally filed crosscut which seems wrong for a dovetail saw which is normally making rip cuts. My hack-job sharpening more or less turned them back into rip teeth.

You may have also noticed that some have "D" handles, others straight handles. That is mostly a matter of personal preference. In both cases for western style saws, you cut with a three finger grip, index finger pointing down the blade. For a Japanese saw you grip near the end of the handle but honestly I don't know if it is supposed to be a 3 or 4 finger grip. Somebody will be along shortly to answer that.

I use my Japanese saw with a very similar grip to my gants saw, just different pressure for pull instead of push. Pretty much a loosish 3 finger grip with the pointer pointing down the shaft. I am really impressed with my Japanese saw.

This is a complex question that you have left out some important details on.

Well the first question is how much are you looking to spend?

The next question is how many dovetails are you looking at cutting? Is it a one time project or are you going to do many dovetail projects.

The previous post is correct, you should go try some out. I don't know where you live, however, it might be worth looking into Lie Nielsen is doing several shows in the states and Canada during the next several months.

I started off with a gent's saw from Woodworker's Warehouse. Then about a year go experimented with a Veritas and Lie Nielsen. Settled for the Lie Nielsen.

Estimated costs (Not a complete list):

1. Rob Crossman $300.00
2. Lie Nielsen $130.00
3. Veritas $65.00 (very nice saw, I don't think one would be disappointed with)
4. Japaneses style saws $50.00
5. Gent's saw $23.00

One other thing to consider.... Especially if you will be cutting quite a bit and foresee sharpening in your future. Since they have such a thin blade (and resulting kerf),the japanese saws are not re-sharpenable. Instead, you spend another $20-$30 dollars and replace the blade. Quick and easy, no skill needed and no lost time from sending it out for sharpening. I know it seems like I'm pushing the japanese style, but I'm not trying to. Hopefully in the not to distant future, I will be getting a LN DT saw, but when I needed a saw a few years ago, the Japanese saw was much closer to my price range. I really do love it, but I'm just trying to set out another option. There is also the combo japanese rip and cross cut saw in the $100 dollar price range. You get a very high quality saw that does both operations and since it is pul, it doesn't require a back spine so there is no limit to depth of cut. Can even be used for actual rip and x-cutting. Let me know if there is anything else I can answer.

I'm very fond of my Adria DT saw. I've test driven the Lee valley saw and it's a darn good saw for the money.

Thanks for all the help guys. I do plan on doing more than one project with dovetails so I’m looking at spending some money for a saw that will last. Your guys help is great again. Now I need to ditch the ball and chain and find someplace to test some hand saws.
Woody

The japanese style blades last as long as a standard blade, I was just trying to say that instead of sharpening, they are replaced. If you would be rarely using it to cut dovetails or other joints, you wouldn't have to replace it, just like you wouldn't have to sharpen your western style or send it off for sharpening. I've never had to replace my blade, and it still cuts through hickory, maple etc just like butter.

Thanks for the information Adom.
Woody

I own a Japanese style saw, which is what I started with when cutting dovetails, easy to use and very cheap, it lets you try your hand without forking out big bucks. After a while I then bought the LN Dovetail saw over all others spec'd out and have not been disappointed with the performance and first used it to cut all these and another 70ish more on that project



So you can see it copes quite well and is easy to start and stays on line rather than deviating.

Was waiting on a hand made one by Mike Wenzlof but could no longer cope with the wait for him to make it after 6 months on a list

Hope this helps?

I have two Shark saws bought off Amazon for rock bottom prices. The first is the 14tpi 12" saw, which I use quite a bit for rough cutting lumber - I even used it to help trim up the laminate counters I installed in my kitchen a few months ago. The second is the 24tpi dowel/dovetail saw, which leaves a very fine kerf but does take some getting used to since there is no reinforcement so the blade is a bit wobbly. I also use this one for flush cutting dowels/etc. for the same reason - the blade bends very well (as it was designed to).

Together, these saws cost me $35 (free shipping with Prime account), so for a beginner they're great. Like I said, I've found myself using them for many other things besides just dovetails and tennons - and the replacement blades are not too expensive. Even if/when I upgrade, I plan on keeping these saws around because they're so useful.

The only dovetail saw I have not owned is the Lunn saw. After 18months on the waiting list I finally gave up. I have owned the LN (2 of them, one they made me an african blackwood handle), Wenzloff (Ebony) and the latest has been the Cosman saw with the synthetic handle. The LN saws are very nice, the extra heft of the blackwood handle made it a joy to use. The Wenzloff was a very pretty saw but did not perform very well and since have sold it to someone else. The latest was the Cosman saw. I have taken some of Rob's courses and he taught me his method of cutting dovetails. Saw cut to saw cut. He is fanatical in detail so when I heard he was coming out with his own saw I was excited to try it. It is slightly longer than others, the brass back is larger to add more weight to the saw and the handle, even though being synthetic has a wonderful feel in the hand. It cut's superbly, I call it point and cut saw. It is now my daily driver and I have no problem leaving it on the workbench, the handle is impervious to being dinged around. I absolutely love that saw. If I had to buy another one I would definitely buy the Cosman again followed by the LN saw. Happy sawing gentleman!

Picking the right saw for you will be pivotal as it would depend on the comfort and the grip it will provide you. The brand would just be auxiliary as it would not guarantee the comfort as designs really differ.

I suggest that you pay your local store a visit so you could choose which one would suit you best. I personally would choose that over a good branded one.