I have started to build two Federal Style Card Tables (Steve Latta design from Fine Woodworking Issue 180). The project will differ for Steve's slightly. I really do not care for his bellflowers, rather I will use the one Tommy uses, the open table will have a checkboard inlay with a border, and some other differences.

There will be two tables being built. The first will be for a friend and the second will be donated to a charity for a fund raiser event.

I will post my progress here only if others are interested.


The first step of the project is making a full scale drawing of the table, and then you need a template for the bricking, which need a layer of tape so you don't glue your first layer of bricking to the template.


The layer of bricking is layed out and then marked. After the bricking is marked on the underside it is then taken to the bandsaw and rough cut to 1/16" to the line. The ends of the bricks are glued and screwed to the template.


The first layer of bricking being glued and clamped to the template.


The glued has dried and the first layer of bricking is getting ready to be trimmed with the router.


Same procedures for the second layer of bricking. This picture the second layer of bricking has already been rough cut on the bandsaw and glued.

Looking good Chuck Keep us updated. I am learning something here. Whats the charity your donating to?

Justin,

This particular charity is a fund raiser for a Taekwonda School, fund is for helping kids to go the AAU National competition. When I complete the blanket chest it will go to the Cri Du Chat society (here is their link http://www.fivepminus.org/). Cri Du Chat is a genetic issue that occurs in every 50,000 births, so this orginization does not have a lot of member (members equate to funds availablity) like the Downs Society. Downs occurrances are 1 in 800 to 1,000 births. In the next year, I will need to complete a build for the Top Soccor orginization. (http://www.cincytopsoccer.com/) Top Soccer is soccer for kids who are special needs, most are Downs, Autistic, or someother genetic issue. Again, this organization does not get a lot of funding from anyplace except from parents, however, every kid plays in a uniform, the organization rents fields, and equipment to buy.

Chuck,

I look forward to seeing the progress on the table. That is definitely one of my favorite projects shown in FWW. Now that you have finished your crazy leg (nice job btw) you should be able to dazzle on this one. Cal

Cal,

Thanks for your support. I think a lot of us wanted to make this table. After completing the Crazy Leg table, I have more confidence that it should be fairly straight foward.

Today I build a couple of jigs to complete cuts that will be required on the apron and the rear knuckle joints. Over the last few days I have cut the bricking and veneered both aprons









I veneered the front and back of the apron, with the 1/16" veneener. Next time, I will either use a commercial veneer for the back or not even veneer the back.

Today, I attached the back rail onto the apron with dovetails. The first dovetail was cut by hand and due to the curve in the apron it was difficult to determine the flat area for the socket and to chop out the waste in the socket. For the other three dovetails I did one of Tommy's tricks with the router and it worked a lot faster and the dovetails looked better.











Tomorrow I will start the rear knuckle joints.

I love the progress keep up the good work and keep posting. Cant wait to see more.

Sorry for not posting any more progress. I have been working on some torsion box shelves for the wife and working and the knuckles. I tried Steve Latta's method and it came out so so (not really happy, but the swings on the joint are level and it is under the table where nobody will see it). On the second table, I will try a different knuckle joint that Eli was kind enought to see me some info on.

After I have completed both sets of knuckle joints, I will post some pictures of them.

Hi Chuck,

I'm enjoying seeing your progress, thanks for posting and sharing. I haven't been around much lately, but I pop in from time to time. Just wanted to let you know I thought the work looks great and it's nice to see someone being so charitable with their work.

take care for now,

Dave

Let me tell you all that this knuckle joint is not easy to figure out the first time. However, like many things in woodwork after you learn the small techniques it is not very hard. Thanks to Eli, he started me out in an easier way of making the knuckle joint than Steve Latta's method.

OK guys here is an short update on the progress...first Walnutbeagle came over for a short visit and we examed the first knuckle joint and there was an 1/8" up swing on one of the joints. This would mean that the table leg would lift up 1/8" in its travel (unacceptable). After studing David Charlesworth second book and reviewing the info and pictures that Eli sent, I made a practice joint. The second practice joint works prefect and the next post will go though the process of making the NBSS and Carlesworth's simple style knuckle joint. NOTE: all working stock must be flat and square prior to making the joint. (lesson learned the hard way.). Chisels must be extremely sharp!!!!

Hey Chuck..........curious now. Bringing in the WalnutBeagle for consultation means good info and a few laughs, I can't resist but somewhere in this discussion a " nuckle sandwich" seems appropriate. Maybe for Latta's knuckle building discription.


Looking forward to the pix............Neil

Well here are the pictures of one of the knuckle joints that have been completed.

Layout is everything for this joint and sharp chisels are important, since this is white oak. When I cut the fingers on the joint I used David Charlesworth’s method. His technique was to use a band saw instead of a table saw, which could introduce more errors. If you use the table saw and there is any saw dust or should your sled be a little worn, or the end of the board is not perfectly at 90 degrees, your joint could either rise or fall when in operation. With the band saw the boards need to be flat and parallel, eliminate some of the possible error.

Using the band saw require a spacer that is the same thickness of the saw blade kerf (Eli suggested that this spacer is made from the same type of wood that is being used). This method only requires two fence adjustments. Highly recommend that a practice joint is completed first to determine how the spacer works. (Also, get a copy of Charlesworth Volume Two and review page 99 …he has good direction on how to use the spacer)

Start with at least a 37” board to insure it will be long enough for the tenons for the legs.


This first picture is to figure out the center of the board and than measure 3 ¼” from the center to get the 6 ½” distance between the knuckle joints.


Draw the circle and line (the line is on the leg side of the joint.


Layout the joint on the moving arm (swing portion of the joint)


Layout fingers of the joint using a set of dividers

Making the space for the band saw


Cutting the fingers on band saw

Cutting the fingers on the band saw with spacer

Cutting a 45 to start the knuckle

Forming the partial knuckle

Cutting the waste between the fingers using a band saw

Hand saw the start of the 45 for relief area on backside of joint


Front view of hand sawing


Using a jig to chisel out the 45 for allowing the joint to swing open

Check drill press fence for square
Align the fence the proper distance using a centering rod and the joint


Drill a hole in the drill press bottom to accept a ¼’ steel rod to help align the hole to finish the hole (make sure to put wax on the steel rod this help get the rod out later)

Pictures of the finish joint

Sorry about not getting all the pictures in last night, however, the forum program would not allow me to post any more. If there are any you would like to see, let me know and I will post only those pictures that are requested. I tried to take pictures throughout all the steps.

nice work chuck....i would have cut the joint with a table saw and dado set..very impressive you did it by hand...so both legs fly out huh...i have only done this for a flipper to hold up a leeeef on a pembroke table...good job...

I trying something new with picasaweb with the knuckle joint. Here are the pictures of the process http://picasaweb.google.com/CSMiddleton ... 2o1gVy_AE#

Sorry for taking so long since posting any progress on the tables...had to finish a honey-do project for my better half.

Today I completed the other set of white oak knuckle joints for the second table. Tonight I will cut out the back take the back legs down to final dimensions and make the tapers and mortises. Will post a few pics of the work...most of this is fairly straight forward.

nice going chuck...keep on keepen on

Hey, Chuck! Looks great!

Just to clarify, I actually meant that the piece of wood you put the kerf in should be the same as the rails, not that the shim should be the same wood. Oh, well. Also, on your table, where the leg swings, you don't need to mortise into the rails as much. On a fly rail, with no leg, we like to mortise the rail for a few reasons. First, we leave a little extra wood outside the pin. This isn't too big of a deal. Second, the mortises are cut tight on the top and bottom, just like the joint. This provides extra support for the open rail, so it doesn't sag over time. Third, The mortises are cut so that the end of the mortise stops the rail at 90 degrees. Normally, the rail is stopped when the joint runs into itself. If you continue to push on it, it is putting pressure on the little bit of short grain past the pin, prying the joint open. If you have the mortise as your stop, the pressure is actually towards the solid part of the rail.

No real problems for you, and not super important, but it's the little stuff that makes it last 200 years instead of 50.

Eli

haha this looks confusing. Can i just Put a hinge on mine instead of making a knuckle joint? Lol just kidding

Eli,

Thanks for the added information. I did round over the swing arm part of the joint, however, the fingers on the swing arm still slightly sticks out beyond the fixed side of the joint. I planned on cutting small mortises to accept this extra and use it to stop the swing at the required thirty degrees that Steve Latta plan requires.

Next time I make this joint, I will not round over the arms as you suggest.

Well got the back legs almost completed today...need to clean then up with a plane. However, they are mortised and tapered on both tables.

Tomorrow, plane all four sides of each leg and then make a mock-up dovetail bridle joint for the front legs (here is another new joint for me).


This is the tapering jig I used for the legs.


Here are the legs tapered and still need to be cleaned-up with a plane. (I'll probabilty use a no. 5 1/2 plane)
If you look really closely on the left side of the picture, you can see the other table's apron and legs in the background.

Alright Chuck!!!!!! Cook'in Brotha!!!!!..........I like the knuckle follow through. Are you the same place on both pieces or are you working through one then the other??? I'm impressed........Charlesworth would be proud...is T-Chisel????

Neil

neil are kidden me ..i am pumped to see chuck cruizen along....he is always dong something...and did you know this piece is for a charity.....pretty cool man....thanks!!

Chuck,

Nice going on your progress. You can send your third one over to my house in KS when you are done!

Looking forward to more! CH