Hey guys. I am just wondering what you guys think of these hollow chisel mortise machines. I've been toying with getting one and am not sure which way to go. Sure I'd like to get a P-Matic but I just ain't got the P-Dollahs for that. I've heard a lot of people complain about the Delta 14-650 especially with harder woods. And I noticed Laguna makes one for around $350. Anyone have anything good or bad to say about their experiences? Is there like one or two companies that actually make them and throw all different brand names on them? Thanks in advance yet again...

I've used and been saving my pennies for the floor model powermatic. A real nice tool. I alsomost bought a bench top model, but after using the p-matic I know I don't want anything else.

I've got a benchtop Delta and I'm not thrilled. It drills and chops square holes but the clamping is not very good when I'm doing a lot of mortises. If I ever upgrade, I'd be looking for the feature that clamps stock up against the fence so I don't have to hold it square to the fence with my hand. That gets tiring.

the bench top ones will work but if you are doing serious mortising a floor model is the way to go. holds everything and the table moves and they are just really nice. hoping to get a floor model unless I'm forced to buy a bench model. and if you have to get a bench model i think a Laguna would be great. haven't heard a single bad thing about them.

Thanks for the tips guys.

I have always felt on these that heavier is better. I've got a 1930's delta foot operated mortiser/boring machine. I bolted her butt to the floor and haven't had any issues. Except, that is, in getting parts for it.

I have a little bench top Steel City model, And have to say that thing works great for me. Its no floor model, but for what it is I have to say it works very well for what it is. My only complaint is the depth stop. I just wish it adjusted better but it stops the machine dead on when you set it.

Did you get one yet? If so what kind did you decide to go with?

Well I guess I decided to keep chopping them by hand while I save up for floor model.

You will be glad you are saving for a floor model. I bought a bench model by Jet and did not like it. It was just too hard to use and too slow. Cruising E-Bay one day, I found a floor model. Bid on it and got it. If I understood correctly, this company sold demonstrators and dings. I could find nothing wrong with mine when it arrived.

I just finished 6 dining chairs and two tables that were full of mortises. I would never have completed the job using the bench model. All it does now is collect dust.

Skip
http://www.my-wooden-creations.com/

hey skip ..i enjoyed your video...i like the glue gun trick.....man that was cool....i like the troop site too......thanks

i hope to see more of you here at the 207

I've had an inexpensive Woodtek benchtop mortiser for probably 10 years. It works great all things considered. With a good 1/4" chisel in it it's pretty fast, but once you get up to say a 1/2" chisel, it bogs down a bit. All that said, I'd rather use this machine than do them by hand or with a drillpress set up.

I own a delta bench model that I have used for years it works fine . If you don't install the bit correctly it won't cut very well at all. I also own a laguna tilting model mortiser It works better for larger projects but it's design as far as the clamps an stops are concerned needs to be improved It's also 220 so if you don't have 220 you'll need to get lagunas non-tilting model. I also had a problem with the sales person not giving me good information and there service department is hit an miss at laguna . I've always had good luck with grizzly tools and I think you could still get a floor model for less money.

Jim

I bought the Steelex Floor model from Grizzly for 473.00 shipped if you look at thier web site and WMH's(Powermatic & Jet) it is the same other than the color of paint & Cost!!.

I wasn't too sure at first when I ordered it but it works great and Paul if you're worried about clamping ability you wont be with this one, and the x/y/z table movement is smooth as silk.

worth checking out. Im happy, I use my domino for small stuff now.

Scott

I also have experienced binding/sticking with the larger bits. A friend suggested that I keep a stick of parafin wax close-by and run it along the outside surfaces of the chisel every few plunges. I haven't tried that yet, but wonder if anyone else has tried this to reduce binding. It seems like it would be a pain to use that technique, but anything is better than fighting the machine to get the chisel back out of the wood! It wears me out!

Mark, you may be on to something with the paraffin. Next time I use my 1/2" chisel I'll try it.

Rick

I put a little beeswax on my chisel when I'm having trouble and it seem to help. Usually I do it after things have stuck, so the steel is hot and the wax melts instantly. After a few more cuts the wax is pretty much gone and I need to wax it again. In the back of my mind I have worried about subsequently the glue not bonding, but 1) I have never seen a failure, and 2) there is a lot of surface in a mortise, so I suspect the strength of the mortise depends more on the wood and fit than it does on the tensile strength of the glue.
My 2 cents.

wax may help a symptom but i think the problem is the work is not clamped properly....i use to fight my mortiser too...until i watched steve work the machine...he ALWAYS had a clamp block keeping the work piece secured to the table in both directions...the next time i needed to mortise ,i did te same thing and i haven't had a problem since....unless i am rushing

Whenever they show Norm using his mortiser, he's just chomping down on that thing like nobody's business. I checked his website to see if he has ever addressed there the issue of using a mortiser. Here's what I found in answer to a question about getting good results from a mortiser:

"I always take the trouble to surface plane each piece of stock to a uniform thickness before starting to machine the various elements because even minor irregularities can cause problems later. Another tip is to set up the mortiser so that the chisel is square to the fence and that the hold-down is adjusted to keep the stock from moving around. I also make sure the bit is correctly adjusted 1/32" - 1/16" lower than the chisel. Finally, when I actually begin to drill out the mortise, I make the first plunge slowly to avoid burning the wood or putting undo pressure on the tool. With subsequent plunges, I only remove about two thirds of a chisel width at any one time. After I've drilled out the mortises, I turn to the tenons. I take the time to make trial samples until they fit snugly into the mortise, then I proceed carefully making tenons on the actual pieces. I hope these tips help you perfect your skills in making these useful joints."

There is a nice little article in the current FWW on power mortisers. It's not a model-by-model comparison, but a look at the different levels (benchtop, floor-standing, industrial, etc.). It might give you some answers on whether to buy a benchtop now, or save for the floor model.

Shawn,
Welcome to the forum neighbor.

Thanks for the welcome Scott. Looking forward to participating in the forums. Seems a bit dead lately tho.

Skip, posts like yours are why I have a shop full of big machines and no room to move around. If I sell my benchtop Delta, I'll be looking for a floor model one also.

I have a benchtop and It's ok out of the box at best. In stock form, better than the DP attachment deal but not by much. I ordered the cone and hones from Rockler and it was night and day better. I also added a cheap HF drill press vice and it got better yet. It saves time but I still clean up with a chisel to get perfect sides. If I had room I'd own a floor model but I'd have to give up something as it is now to make it fit.