Hi T thanks for taking the time to post all those podcasts. Really enjoyed watching them.
After you noticed a gap on the side of the lid you said you adjusted the hinge by moving it slightly toward the pigon hole assembly which fixed the problem. How did you get the screws to bite since it looked like you already had screwed the hinge in? Didn't the existing holes push the lid back to it's original position?
Joined: Sat Jun 14, 08 10:28 am Posts: 345 Location: Vineland NJ
John, Tommy is at his show this weekend so I am not sure he will get to answering your question right away. There are a couple of ways to fix this. The best way would be to either chisel out a hole and stick a new piece of wood in its place, that will give you new wood to screw into. Or you could drill the hole bigger and stick a dowel in the hole, same as the above more or less. Or a quick and easy way out that will in time work it way out is to shove little shims in the hole. But like I said in do time this will work its way back out if it see a lot of abuse.
One thing I ways do when mounting hinges is try to only put one screw in and then check the alignment of the hinge. This way you only have to repair one hole instead of them all.
Joined: Sat Jun 14, 08 3:15 pm Posts: 379 Location: Boston, MA
Hinges are tricky because they aren't all the same. Even two of the same hinge from the same manufacturer have small discrepancies. Sometimes the pivot point isn't even in the center of the barrel, which may be the case here. When fitting hinges, always remember which hinge goes where, because switching them around can change everything.
Joined: Fri Aug 14, 09 7:13 am Posts: 77 Location: Durham, NC
How do you avoid this? From the podcast T said he split the barrel, half on each side. Why didn't this work?
Reply: John this is one of the TRICKIEST parts of building any fall front desk. How do you avoid this?
Make a test set up and work the hinges to get it right on the real deal. Unlike Tommy's approach, I cut the slope on the desk sides before I glue it up. I don't know if I could take a circular saw and hack it off like he did.
More importantly the relationship of where the slope ends(ie 3/4" or 7/8" or 1" above the writing surface is based on the thickness of the fall front desk surface thickness and the rabbet depth you cut.
I make a sample with the hinge to get the depth and edge to edge line just right. I cut the rabbet in the edge of the mock up lid and move the writing surface(joins to the desk side and move it up and down till the lid sits just right when closed. Now you know where to put the writing desk surface in relation to the slope.
I can send a photo along if this isn't quite clear.
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